「街拍不是瞎拍」當紅攝影師Jonathan Daniel Pryce分享8個成為專業街拍攝影師的要訣 | Vogue雙語讀時尚

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「我的目標不是幫名人爭搶風采，而是紀錄我們的時代，就是我們現在生活的方式。」 Vogue 街拍攝影師 Jonathan Daniel Pryce 在他的新書《Garçon Style》中如此寫道。歷經超過五年的拍攝，這本書在紐約、倫敦、巴黎和米蘭這四大時尚首都擷取人們的身影，向這些人們獨樹一格的生活品味致敬。

「我喜歡 Jonathan 在每一座城市中找到的個性，那些人們僅靠一副造型就表現出個人的獨特印記。他的重點不在人們穿得有多好看，或那些顯而易見的潮流和主張，而在於性格。」Paul Smith 爵士在序言中這麼寫。

My goal is not to celebrate celebrity, but to document our time. The way we live now,” says Vogue street style photographer Jonathan Daniel Pryce of his new book, Garçon Style. Shot over five years, the book captures men across all four fashion capitals – New York, London, Paris, Milan – paying tribute to their unique sense of style.

“I like that Jonathan finds characters within each city, the men who put their own unique stamp on a look. His focus isn't on the perfect way of dressing or obvious trends and statements, it's about personality,” writes Sir Paul Smith in the foreword.

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與街頭時尚攝影常見的報導式風格不同，Pryce 的作品更貼近詩，而詩中有一隻精準抓住細節、色彩、時間與光影的犀利眼睛。「我在 Jonathan 的作品中會看到超乎預期的東西，Paul Smith 說。「他為作品賦予的是故事，賦予的是生命。」

Pryce 在讀大學時交出第一個攝影專題，靈感來自 Amy Arbus 的《On the Street》，作品題為《Les Garçons de Glasgow》：融合了題中這座蘇格蘭城市的街頭風尚與夜店攝影。2012 年，他在自己的 Tumblr 網站「100 Beards 100 Days」爆紅後，成為「鬍子男」。從這時起，他就受 Vogue、GQ 和 Mr Porter 之託，不斷在世界各大時尚首都旅行。

Rather than the usual reportage approach to street style photography, Pryce's work is more akin to poetry, with an unerring eye for detail, colour, time and light. “What I see from Jonathan goes beyond the expected,” says Paul Smith. “He gives context; he gives life.”

Pryce's first project came while at university, inspired by Amy Arbus’s On the Street, and titled Les Garçons de Glasgow: a fusion of street style and nightclub photography taken in the Scottish city. In 2012, he became “the beard guy” when his Tumblr, 100 Beards 100 Days, went viral. Since then, he's been travelling the fashion capitals of the world, commissioned by Vogue, GQ and Mr Porter.

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Jonathan Daniel Pryce 分享「如何成為街頭時尚攝影師」：

1.問問自己為什麼把這件事當成第一志業？街頭時尚聽起來很像是進入時尚攝影界的捷徑，然而這個領域其實是一個成熟的產業，而你能為這個產業端上什麼菜色？拍攝的時候，我更在乎的是講述一則還沒有被別人講過的故事。

2.注意業界生態時裝週既生氣勃勃又令人興奮，但請記得，這終究是場商業活動。這個業界裡有也需要吃飯的編輯和造型師，其中有一些人一做就已是幾十年了。請尊重你周遭的議題和環境。最重要的，是別妨礙別人做事。

3.準備好徒步走上整整一個月這是一樁體力活：大多時候都要靠你的雙腳花上漫長的好幾天工作。你得上緊發條很長一段時間；拍一張好照片需要花腦力和銳利的雙眼，一次就是好幾個禮拜。

4.這項工作需要社交我知道有些攝影師選擇進入街頭攝影這行，是因為個性內向，而這個領域可以不需要太多互動就能創作影像。但對我來說，正好相反。我熱愛與人來往；親耳聽聽人們的故事，並將這些故事轉化成影像。

How to be a street style photographer by Jonathan Daniel Pryce:

Ask yourself why you want to do it first Street style seems like an easy way to access the world of fashion photography, but it is a mature industry, so what can you bring to the table? When shooting, I'm more conscious than ever of telling a story that hasn't already been told by someone else.
Be aware of the ecosystem Fashion week is vibrant and exciting, but remember this is still a business. There are editors and stylists who are there to do a job, some of whom have been in it for decades. Respect the subjects and the environment around you. Most importantly, don't get in the way.
Be prepared to be on your feet for a month It is physically demanding: working long days, on your feet most of the time. You have to be switched on for long periods of time; to take a good photo requires brain power and sharp eyes, for weeks at a time.
It is a sociable job I know some photographers choose street photography as a genre because they are shy characters and it's a way to create an image without much interaction. For me, it's the opposite. I love the connection; hearing people's stories in person and translating that into an image.

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5.這份工作有時候也很怪街頭時尚攝影僅僅只是眾多工作中的一種，在這項工作中，我常常和其他攝影師肩並肩拍攝相同的對象。這會產生一種真實的社群感：你們因為對創作藝術作品有共同的愛好，所以成為群體。

6.充實自己，不要瞎拍千萬別因為某人看起來很有型或有其他人也拍了某人，所以你才拿那個人當拍攝對象。我常常看到人們一窩蜂競相湧上去搶拍那些車門打開的時刻，在那種情境下，十次有九次都拍不到好作品。別瞎拍：反之，多去認識設計師，多去了解別人在做什麼，都在哪些地點做事。如果你能確保自己在正確的時間出現在正確的地點，就更有機會創作出最用心的影像作品。

7.訓練自己的眼睛我們很容易就會被人群中最耀眼閃亮的人吸引，但那個畫面未必就是當下最值得注意的事。訓練自己的眼睛，讓自己能看見屬於個人的風格，不要僅僅追求趨勢。

8.每個人都值得一份自己的尊嚴這是我的一位朋友幾年前告訴過我的話，這句話在街頭拍攝的時候真的會不斷在腦海中迴響起來。我們在公共空間拍攝肖像時，經常要負擔一份沉默的合約，因此請記得，每個人都值得一份尊重，無論那個人是誰或從哪裡來。我但願自己的作品能在不停大眾化的時尚界中扮演某種角色，同時能帶著尊重的態度記錄著時代。

But it is also weird at times Street style photography is one of the only types of jobs where I stand side by side with other photographers who'll be shooting a similar subject. There is a real sense of community – you're united in this shared love of the creative arts.
Educate yourself and don’t run blindly Don’t shoot people just because you think they look famous or because others photograph them. I often see a rush of people racing when a car door opens and I know nine times out of 10 I will not get a great photograph under those circumstances. Don't run blindly: instead, know the designers; know who is doing what and where. Making sure you're in the right place at the right time helps to create the most considered imagery.
Train your eye It’s easy to be attracted to the brightest, most sparkly person in the crowd, but that's not necessarily the most interesting thing that is going on. Train your eye to see personal style, rather than simply seeking out the trends.
Everyone deserves their dignity This was a quote that a friend told me a few years ago and it really resonates when shooting on the street. We undertake an often unspoken contract when making portraits in a public space and it’s important to remember that everyone deserves respect, regardless of who they are or where they come from. I hope my work has played some role in democratising fashion, while respectfully documenting our time.

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攝影：Jonathan Daniel Pryce; 來源：CNI