Key takeaways
- Microneedling involves a roller or stamp device that inserts thousands of tiny needles into the skin’s surface. This induces the production of elastin and collagen.
- Microneedling may reduce the appearance of scars and wrinkles and support the overall health of your skin.
- Generally, your home is not as sanitary as a skin care professional’s office. Doing this procedure at home does pose safety risks, such as infection.
Potential benefits of microneedling include:
- reduced wrinkles and stretch marks
- reduced acne scarring and skin discoloration
- increased skin thickness
- facial rejuvenation
- enhanced product absorption
For anyone looking for a way to tackle these concerns at home, microneedling might be your answer. However, microneedling is best when done in an office by a skin care professional.
Here’s what you need to know about this process.
Microneedling, often referred to as dermarolling or collagen induction therapy, is a cosmetic procedure in which thousands of tiny needles are inserted into the surface of your skin via a rolling or stamping device.
Dermarolling works by creating microscopic wounds that induce collagen and elastin production.
The best size of dermaroller will depend largely on what you’re trying to accomplish. Generally, a needle length of 0.5 millimeters (mm) to 1.0 mm is most common for skin concerns like wrinkles.
The most suitable needle size will depend on why you’re using a dermaroller as well as the skin area you’re targeting.
Since we’re all about simplicity, here’s a table summarizing what length may be suitable for certain health concerns:
| Concerns | Needle length (millimeters) |
|---|---|
| acne scars | 1.5 to 2.0 mm |
| scars due to other causes | 1.5 to 2.0 mm |
| wrinkles and skin ageing | 0.5 to 1.0 mm |
| enhancing the penetration of topical products | 0.13 mm |
| pore size | less than 0.15 mm |
Note: Microneedling won’t help postinflammatory erythema (PIE), which is redness or pink blemishes.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has
Follow these steps to avoid any hazards and unwanted infections.
Step 1: Disinfect your roller
Disinfect your dermaroller by letting it soak in
Step 2: Wash your face
Thoroughly cleanse your face using a gentle pH-balanced cleanser. If you’re using a dermaroller with needles longer than 0.5 mm, you’ll also need to wipe down your face with 70% isopropyl alcohol before the rolling process.
You should inspect your face for any open sores/wounds, like acne, and avoid dermarolling until the skin is fully intact in order to prevent infection.
Step 3: Apply numbing cream, if necessary
Depending on your pain tolerance, you might benefit from an anesthetic cream. However, you’ll most certainly want some numbing cream for anything above 1.0 mm, since that needle length will draw blood via pinpoint bleeding.
If you use numbing cream, follow the instructions the manufacturer provides, and make sure to completely wipe it off before you start rolling!
Step 4: Begin dermarolling
The technique is very important. Visually splitting up your face into sections makes the whole process easier. Here’s a visual of what that looks like:
Avoid rolling in the shaded area, representing the orbital (eye sockets) area.
Use one hand to pull the skin taut and use the other hand to roll the device perpendicular to the direction you’re stretching the skin.
Roll the device
Lifting the dermaroller after each pass prevents “tram track” scarring.
- After you roll in the same place several times, adjust the dermaroller slightly, and repeat. Do this until you’ve covered the entire section of skin you’re treating.
- After rolling in one direction, go back over the area you just rolled and repeat the process in the perpendicular direction. For example, say you finished rolling across your forehead vertically, now would be the time to go back and repeat that entire process horizontally.
Step 5: Wash your face with water
After microneedling, rinse your face with water.
Step 6: Clean and disinfect your dermaroller
Clean your dermaroller as the manufacturer recommends.
Disinfect your dermaroller again by letting it soak in the 70% isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes. Make sure it’s a different bowl of alcohol than what was used before starting microneedling. Put it back in its case and store it somewhere safe.
You should clean and disinfect your roller
Step 7: Continue your basic skin care routine
Use a gentle cleanser and moisturizer.
Dermarolling safety tips
Stick with the following safety tips to minimize your risks when microneedling:
- Talk with a healthcare professional before use if you have bleeding or clotting disorders, including taking medication that thins your blood.
- Avoid microneedling if you have a weak immune system or skin conditions such as eczema.
- Clean and disinfect the device between every use.
- Never share a dermaroller with another person. Ask a healthcare professional to use a new needle cartridge for each patient.
How often you dermaroll also depends on the length of the needles you’ll be using. In some cases, you may need to wait a minimum of
Speak with a healthcare professional for more help judging how long to wait between sessions. Make sure your skin is completely recovered before starting another session!
Rebuilding collagen is a slow process. Remember, it takes the skin a fair amount of time to regenerate itself.
After rolling, the skin may:
Less commonly, risks
- dark or light spots on the skin
- lines on the face (“tram track” scarring)
- cold sore flare-up
- swollen lymph nodes
- infection
There will be some minor erythema (redness) for about
The time it takes to see results may depend on the condition you’re treating, the skin area, needle length, and more.
According to research in a 2025 review, three months of dermarolling treatment may lead to improvements in:
- wrinkle depth
- facial texture
- acne scars
Remember, if you do try dermarolling, never do it on active acne! If you have any hesitations or questions, consult your skin care professional before moving forward.
This post, which was originally published by Simple Skincare Science, has been edited for clarity and brevity.