Monday, 16 March 2020 01:23 am
elsewhence: (Default)
[personal profile] elsewhence
useful note: you can buy highly affordable choli blouse patterns at blouse guru, and that's interesting because cholis have some really interesting stuff going on with sleeves that fit smoothly when the arms are down, yet provide a lot of freedom of movement. and also, the way they achieve a very close fit around the breasts, though that's something i have largely figured out myself at this point. always good to learn more, there's a reason i own literally dozens of pattern drafting books that sometimes resulted in shocking revelations from just a single sentence or two

i picked a normal cut, a princess cut, a double katori cut (i'm not actually sure what precise style that refers to, but it appears to be similar to the way bra cups are cut, even closer fit than you can get with princess seams) and a seperate long sleeve that supposedly fits all of them, all with low front and back necks, for a total of about 7€. (though come to think of it, maybe i should also have picked something with a very high neckline to see how that affects fit and freedom of movement. i was thinking of how the information i might get from these patterns could help with drafting regency bodices, i guess, and the only one i might still get around to reproducing would be low-necked. i do know that going from a properly fitted low neckline to a high one isn't as simple as just raising it, there's further alterations involved to prevent gaping that might end up causing the neckline to choke you if you just move it back up...)

payment accepts paypal, so no problems at all in that respect.

(i wonder if the people who run that business are now really surprised that someone from germany wanted to buy their patterns...)

EDIT: yeah, i was right going from the technical drawings. a katori choli has set-in cups and an underbust band much like some 1930s bras. for further differentiation, on a regular one the cup is cut in one piece and shaped using a dart, on a double katori it's cut in two pieces seperated by a horizontal seam, sometimes with an additional dart in the undercup (so really, in that case it's functionally three pieces). this is all so intrigueing, i've never seen anything quite like it in western pattern cutting

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kay jorin

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